A visit to its second city, Plovdiv reveals quality galleries, cafes and restaurants, as does Stara Zagora, one of Europe’s oldest cities, with stone age dwellings (preserved in the Neolithic Dwellings Museum), a Roman Amphitheatre, and elegant late 19th to early 20th century architecture, built after the Turkish razed the city in 1877. Veliko Tarnovo has a medieval castle, imposing monastery, and dramatic setting, with its charming houses tumbling down a hillside overlooking a picturesque valley. Hire a car and head for the country and you’ll find somnolent villages and splendid monasteries awaiting the adventurous traveller – at budget prices.