The west end of the island is the major tobacco-growing area, where the rich soil produces crops for some of the best cigars in the world. The beautiful mountain landscape of the Sierra del Rosario, containing a Biosphere Reserve at Las Terrazas, tapers down to the fascinating and evocative limestone mogotes around Viñales.
Historians and fans of Che Guevara should head east to Santa Clara, a pleasant university city famous for being the site of the last and decisive battle of the Revolution in December 1958. It is also the last resting place of Che and his comrades who were killed in Bolivia. On the south coast, Trinidad is one of the best-preserved towns in the Americas and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It remains in a time warp from the Spanish colony of the 19th century, with its cobbled streets, tiled roofs, wrought-iron railings, churches, palaces and humble dwellings.
The Sierra Maestra, the eastern mountain range from where Fidel Castro and his comrades launched their attacks on the dictatorship in the 1950s, surrounds and protects the second city, Santiago de Cuba. Sheltered by the mountains, Santiago is hot and steamy, with a culture to match. More Afro-Caribbean than Havana, it also has strong French influences on music, dance and art because of past immigration from Haiti.